Guama – A sweet pod with a fun seed

Posted on March 21, 2012 by

Guama (Inga feuilleei) is a rather peculiar “fruit” that can sometimes be found on carts around Bogotá. I had never tried it but always heard about it because of a Colombian saying that goes, “salió como pepa de guama“.

The seeds are a lot like slippery watermelon seeds but a lot bigger, and when you squeeze them between your fingers they shoot out like little erratic projectiles. So the saying, “como pepa de guama” (like a guama seed), is used when someone or something leaves very quickly – a lot like a “bat out of hell”, is my approximation.

This “fruit” is actually not a fruit at all but a legume, like carob or tamarind, with large greenish brown pods that can reach the length of a person’s forearm. Other sources place it in a sub-category of “cotton fruit” along with guanabana and mangosteen, among others, which explains why it’s sometimes called the “ice cream pod” because of the sweet cotton-like flesh that surrounds the seeds.

Yes, it definitely feels like a moist cotton ball in your mouth, which is a little strange, but it has a mild sweetness that is rather pleasant. It probably won’t knock your socks off but it’s a nice little “fruit”.

The guama tree is native to Central and South America and people sometimes use it to make fruit juice, although I’ve never seen guama juice being sold anywhere in Colombia – or Bogotá, at least. What seems to be its main purpose is to provide shading for coffee and cacao plantations, while its abundant fruit provides some sustenance for families that live in the vicinity of the tree - or for curious people riding around ciclovía in the rain.

One pod costs $1,000 pesos (a little over 50 cents).

Posted in Bogotá, Colombia, Ingredients | Tagged , , , , | 5 Comments

The 7 Links Challenge: A look back at Bogotá Eats & Drinks

Posted on March 6, 2012 by

The 7 Links Challenge was created by Tripbase.com in order to “unite bloggers (from all sectors) in a joint endeavor to share lessons learned and create a bank of long but not forgotten blog posts that deserve to see the light of day again.”

Me eating a tamal or doing research for Bogotá Eats & Drinks

And now here I am, happy to have been nominated by the good people at the See Colombia travel blog to dust off some old posts and share a few of my most memorable blogging moments with my readers.

Before I get going though, I must nominate 5 other bloggers to choose some of their best, most beautiful and proudest moments. So, here are my nominees from the blogosphere:

Mantaraya Colombia Travel Blog: Drew is also part of Proexport’s Official Blogger Program. You’ll find all kinds of useful and insightful articles about Colombia here and plenty of reasons to come visit.

Mike’s Bogotá Blog: Mike, another fellow Official Blogger, writes about current issues in Colombia. With everything from cultural to political and every day topics, you’re sure to learn something new about Colombia on every visit.

Mis Aventuras Gastronomicas en Bogotá: This blog is in Spanish and has some great restaurants reviews, recipes, tips and more. Roni makes some great observations about Bogotá’s dining scene and even has an online radio program where he interviews Colombian chefs and foodies.

Brickell Life: Chad’s blog is one way I can stay in touch with Miami so I don’t lose touch with my home town. Some of his topics include Colombia, his balcony garden and Miami history.

Eggton: A friend introduced me to this blog a few months ago and I’ve been following it ever since. It’s always a good laugh plus there’s a recipe with every post and pictures of Thunder, the puppy.

And now, without further ado, here are my 7 Links:

The Most Beautiful Post:

El Cocuy National Park, Boyacá (and a little lamb)

Laguna Grande de la Sierra seen from the top of Pan de Azúcar

The pictures just don’t do it justice, but I think my most beautiful post was one I wrote about my trip to the Cocuy National Park in Boyacá. This 5-day trekking adventure was rough but totally worth it.

The Most Popular Post:

Andrés Carne de Res in Chia & Andrés D.C.

andrés carne de res chia

Andrés Carne de Res, Andrés D.C. and La Plaza de Andrés always, without question, get the most attention on the blog. It’s not really all that surprising – these places are special for so many reasons and definitely worth a visit.

The Most Controversial Post:

My Menu Collection: Or a mild case of kleptomania

This is my most controversial post because it involves stealing…just a little bit and only sometimes. The menu above is my most recent acquisition. I sneakily rolled it up and stuffed it into the sleeve of my jacket. Then, to my horror, I saw a security guard checking everyone on their way out of Andrés at 3 a.m. I panicked as the guard started patting me down, but when she discovered my hidden treasure, she just smirked and let me go – turns out I wasn’t stealing after all.

The Most Helpful Post:

Panela in sickness and in health

In case you didn’t know, agua de panela is something you drink in Colombia as soon as you feel a cold coming on. It has properties that help you sweat out the sickness and recover but it’s also great served chilled on a hot day.

The Post Whose Success Most Surprised Me:

Nick’s: Bogotá’s Go-To Deli

This post’s success surprised me because it got a lot more views than any other post before it. This may well have been the blog post that marked the turning point for the Bogotá Eats & Drinks – from something of a hobby, to a blog that people were actually reading.

The Post That Didn’t Get The Attention it Deserved:

El Motorista and Chiguiro Meat 

This was one of my first posts ever; you could say it was the meal that inspired a blog. Chiguiro is a large rodent and a damn tasty one at that. It deserves a lot more attention and a better reputation.

The Post I’m Most Proud Of:

Colombia’s Official Blogger Program Takes Off

Official Bloggers - Photo courtesy of http://seecolombia.travel/

I’m going to take See Colombia’s lead and make this my proudest moment too. It’s been a good year so far for Bogotá Eats & Drinks. First, I was selected to be among 30 other bloggers to write about Colombia and promote the country to the world. The blog was also nominated for Best Latin American Weblog for the 2012 Bloggie Awards (Congratulations to Banana Skin Flip Flops who ended up winning in that category!).

So that’s that – this trip down memory lane by way of 7 Links has been a good time and I hope you enjoy it as much as I did. Here’s to a lot more eating and a lot more posts to come…

Posted in Eats, Gastronomy, Menu Collection, Travel, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Colombian Fruit Juices – A Love Story

Posted on February 28, 2012 by

Photo by flickr user indigo

Guest post by Drew Sullivan of Mantaraya Colombia Travel Blog

When it comes to lubricating a dry throat, freshly squeezed fruit juice is as good as it gets. The sweet, natural, aromatic flavors of fresh fruit trample over that of soft drinks. Sadly in the western world, freshly squeezed fruit juice is practically a delicacy and you can expect to pay far more for it than its infinitely inferior artificial counterpart.

Before I moved to Bogotá Colombia my fruit juice field consisted of apple, orange, watermelon, lemon, pineapple, mango and maybe a few others. I may have been a fresh fruit juice fanatic, but I was an imposter; utterly ignorant to the depth of the fresh fruit juice world. It was like I listened to one album of Miles Davis and called myself a Jazz aficionado. Colombia opened my eyes. It took me to nectar nirvana and now I’ll never go back.

You see in Colombia, freshly squeezed fruit juice doesn’t discriminate. It’s enjoyed equally by people of all socio-economic levels. At lunchtime it’s often a free accompaniment to the meal. Glass, after glass, after glass, of heavenly sweet freshly squeezed fruit juice. In the street you can buy half a liter for a dollar. Or a fruit juice ice block for 30 cents. And that’s just the beginning…

Colombia has over 150 different types of commercial fruits. Yes that 0 is meant to be there. ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY. That is why I say that apple, orange, watermelon, lemon, these are the Miles Davis of fruit juice; merely the tip of the old iceberg.

Photo by flickr user Hembo Pagi

Ever heard of Lulo? Guanabana? Maracuya? Feijoa? Zapote? These are no doubt what Colombians would call the Joe Arroyo of Salsa. But to me, they’re as exotic as a curly haired Caribbean woman with coconuts for clothes. Damn, I could drink them by the bucket load.

Unlike in the West, Colombian fruit juice is not actually freshly squeezed but rather freshly blended, with water (or milk) and often a little sugar. This results in a much larger swig from your fig and it surprisingly doesn’t produce a watery taste.

Colombian fruit is an unchartered, mouth-watering and healthy world begging to be discovered. Being the most biodiverse country on the planet for its size, Colombia has an unfathomable diversity of ecosystems, each with their own flora and fauna and collection of fruits. Indeed, some fruits can only be found in one particular valley in one specific region of the country. No one has ever documented every fruit that grows in Colombia and I doubt that anyone ever will. But for now, I’ve got 150 on the cards which I can’t wait to start blending!

About the Author: Drew Sullivan arrived in Colombia after riding his motorcycle 20,000kms solo around South America. He now lives in Bogotá and works as a travel writer for Mantaraya Travel, a leading travel company offering tours to Colombia. You can find more of Drew’s stories and videos on Colombia at http://www.mantarayatravel.com/blog and follow him on facebook and twitter @mantarayatravel.


Posted in Bogotá, Drinks, Colombia, Ingredients | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Bogotá Wine Culture and educating the Colombian consumer

Posted on February 22, 2012 by

Wine consumption in Colombia has increased by almost 30% in the last year and that’s partly why so many high-end wine stores keep popping up around Bogotá. The Wine Store is a prime example. But I wonder…who is their toughest competition: large chain supermarkets like Carrefour and Exito or the uneducated wine consumer. The former have done a great deal to make wine accessible to the average consumer – but the world of wine is so much more than cheap wine. And life’s too short to drink really cheap wine.

So, The Wine Store  has chosen to take on uneducated consumers and is doing its share to create a thriving market by offering wine tastings for only $10,000 (about $5 USD). They used to offer tastings for a lot more but realized that they can attract a larger and more diverse audience by lowering the price. It seems like a foolproof marketing strategy to me and it must be working because business is good and the tastings are nearly always fully booked.

To begin with, the store’s set-up is really appealing with wines separated by geographical location, nice lighting, a small delicatessen and a handpicked collection of cookbooks for sale. There is also a comfortable lounge where you can have a drink and share a plate of cheeses and cured meats. The most important part, though, is the friendly unpretentious staff who like to talk about booze…I mean, fine wine and liquor.

I had never had time to attend a tasting (wine, beer or liquor), or I’d call to reserve a spot and there’d be no spaces left. Well, I finally made it to a sherry tasting and realized what I’d been missing. 

Once everyone started to arrive, we were shown to a special room upstairs where 3 tasting glasses and sliced baguettes were waiting for us. Among our fellow tasters were a group of young single women, middle-aged couples, and groups of friends and co-workers all roughly between the ages of 25 and 50, and ready to taste some fortified wines from Spain. 

Tasting glasses set up for Fino, Manzanilla and Oloroso sherry

For this tasting, we had a wine representative and critic who also happens to be a Sherry Ambassador (aka a full-blown Sherry encyclopedia trained in Jerez, Spain). We learned all kinds of fun facts about this fortified wine and three of its main styles (manzanilla, fino and oloroso). Then we tasted and analyzed each one, and all for $10,000. The Wine Store is offering an incredible service here and, at the end of the day, it’s a win-win situation because what they’re really doing is cultivating educated long-term consumers.

Sherry tasting with wine critic and author Jose Rafael Arango

It must not be an easy job to try and train the palate of Colombia’s avid beer and aguardiente drinkers, but I can’t think of a better way of doing it than this. Not only is it educational but also a really nice way to spend an evening, sharing a few drinks with friends and broadening ones oenophilic tendencies in the process.

Of course, prices are a bit higher than in the huge chain stores but that’s a sacrifice that wine lovers make, at least once in a while. On the bright side, you can use your $10,000 entry fee towards a bottle of one of the wines tasted.

Get a heads up on The Wine Store’s tasting schedule by signing up for their newsletter here. You can also follow The Wine Store on Facebook and Twitter.

The Wine Store

Calle 81 # 10-50, Bogotá

(57 1) 610 4240

A meal without wine is like a day without sunshine. - Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

Posted in Bogotá, Drinks | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 9 Comments

Musical Interlude: El Ajiaco

Posted on February 22, 2012 by

Daniel Santos and La Sonora Matancera explain how to make the cuban version of ajiaco…yucca, calabaza y boniato:

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Musical Interlude: Mi Limon Mi Limonero

Posted on February 15, 2012 by

This ode to the lemon was a hit in Spain in the summer of 1969. Hailing from our neighboring country of Venezuela, Henry Stephen started his career in rock and roll and later went on to act in telenovelas. Mi Limon Mi Limonero sold one million copies….

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Andrés Carne de Res in Chía & Andrés D.C.

Posted on February 13, 2012 by

30 years in the making: a Colombian wining, dining, partying institution

There are some places that go beyond ordinary and become legendary. Andrés Carne de Res in Chía (about 40 minutes outside of Bogotá) is one of these places. Ask just about anyone in Bogotá what a tourist should do before leaving the country, and chances are that Andrés will be one of the many things they recommend.

andrés carne de res chia

When I was little I named my pretend restaurant Diana Carne de Rana. Carne de Rana translates to Frog Meat – not a lot of things rhyme with Diana, so rana was the best I could do. The point is, I was very aware of this place even in my childhood and now it’s still one of the best places to have an unforgettable time.

Opened by Andrés Jaramillo in 1982, this was once a little roadside grill and it hasn’t stopped growing since. Andrés and his team are constantly innovating and paying close attention to the details, making this restaurant/rumbiadero/night club a timeless classic.

The menu is extensive (the current “edition” has 62 pages), but as the name of the place implies, the various cuts of beef (res) and other meats of Colombian and Argentinian origin are the most popular. There are also several vegetarian options as well as an array of Colombian cuisine. It’s a great place to sample Colombia’s food and festive spirit, all in one crazy place. As the night carries on, the lights are dimmed, the music gets louder, the dance floor gets packed and the party goes on until 3am.

Fried Colombian food

Colombian fried food sampler - patacón, empanadas, yuca, papa criolla, chicharrón, chorizo, and morcilla - it may be a heart attack on a platter, but at least you'll die happy!

Fresh fruit snack at Andrés

Fresh fruit to snack on - grapes, green mango, coconut, uchuva (gooseberry) and orange

The quality of the food and service is usually excellent and on top of that you have a crew of actors, clowns and musicians wandering around the restaurant entertaining guests and honoring visitors with sashes, crowns and serenades. This place has a thing for making everyone feel special – can you imagine what a birthday is like here? They go ALL out, embarrass the hell out of you, and you can’t wipe the smile off your face. It’s all in good fun and they do a great job.

tequila shots at andres

Complementary tequila shots served in a hollowed out lime...don't forget to squeeze.

Amid the chaos of pumping music, intoxicating celebration, throngs of people dancing and mingling, hundreds of tables, bric-a-brac decoration with a Colombia edge, the eats and drinks, and then some, the servers always seem to have everything under control. Most are university students and their attitude is always surprisingly up-beat – working as a server in Andrés must be like getting a masters degree in working under pressure.

As far as prices go, they can be pretty steep and a lot of people complain about it saying that you spend your entire salary on one visit (this may be true especially if you earn in pesos), but what you get in return is a one of a kind experience. I go maybe once a year, if that, and I always have fun. It isn’t cheap but I’ve been to my share of restaurants and clubs and none compare to the Andrés experience.

"You are here"

Andrés Carne de Res now has a second location in the city called Andrés D.C. (and a separate food court, La Plaza de Andrés). Conveniently located right in the middle of the Zona Rosa and keeping with the same style, food and festivities of the original in Chia, it’s a great party option if you don’t want to make the trip to Chía.

It’s highly recommended to make reservations for both locations, especially on weekends. If you have children you can’t get in after 6pm, so go for lunch and let the kids enjoy a ton of activities. Keep in mind that after a certain hour, and even with reservations, you still get charged a cover. The last time I went to Andrés in Chía, we organized a group of 15 friends from Colombia, Australia, USA, Holland, Venezuela and Spain and rented a small van – it was perfect, affordable and we didn’t have to worry about driving back afterwards.

Remember the Harvard study that says that buying experiences, not possessions, leads to greater happiness? Well, let’s go with that theory and make some memories surrounded by good food and music, a lot of laughing and dancing, and most importantly, some Colombian spirit.

Andrés Carne de Res/Chía: Variante a Cota, Chía (or just ask a local)

Andrés D.C.: Calle 81# 11-94 El Retiro

Tel: 863-7880

http://www.andrescarnederes.com/

Posted in Bogotá, Colombia, Drinks, Eats | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 6 Comments

Colombia’s Official Blogger Program Takes Off

Posted on February 8, 2012 by

Yesterday Proexport launched its new Official Blogger initiative. 33 bloggers, yours truly included, will share their stories about Colombia with the world, through their eyes, ears and taste-buds, enticing tourists and investors alike to come and experience Colombia.

Official Bloggers - Photo courtesy of http://seecolombia.travel/

We all got together at the Hotel de la Opera in La Candelaria for breaskfast followed by an introduction and information session. We then hit the streets for an Amazing Race-like scavenger hunt around Bogotá’s historic center. It rained a little, of course, but with Simón Bolívar as our leader, we persevered.

Simon Bolivar - El Libertador

Bookmark this page: http://www.colombia.travel/es/official-bloggers to get all the latest blog posts in English, Spanish, German, French and Portuguese (Coming soon! The site will be loaded with posts and bios in no time). Each blogger will be required to post at least twice a month and in exchange we’ll increase web traffic to our blog page and have the possibility of receiving invitations to special events and trips to some of Colombia’s hottest destinations.

I’m honored and excited to be a part of this crew and to continue sharing my Colombia with you and hopefully many more! The idea is brilliant and I’m sure that with such a diverse group of bloggers telling it how they see it, there will be something for everyone and everyone will be booking their next vacation to Colombia.

Posted in Bogotá, Colombia, Travel | Tagged , , , , , , | 15 Comments

Paloquemao Market: A Bogotá must-see

Posted on January 30, 2012 by

The Plaza de Mercado de Paloquemao is one of Bogotá’s most important markets for fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, dairy, flowers, and much more. It was founded in 1946, and has been in its current location since 1967.  Pawel, a friend from Poland, was gracious enough to let me borrow some of the beautiful images he captured of the market and the people that work there. Take a look…

Paloquemao tower, Bogotá

Welcome to Paloquemao market

Guanabana in Paloquemao

José, holding a guanabana, has been working in Paloquemao for 25 years. He inherited the business from his father.

Tomate de arbol, tree tomato or tamarillo

Tomate de árbol a.k.a tree tomato or tamarillo is native to Andean countries like Colombia.

Bananas in Paloquemao

Bananas sold by Rodrigo. For 1 USD you can get as many as 20 pieces.

cubios, root vegetable from Boyacá

Cubios - a small root vegetable from Cundinamarca and Boyacá.

Bogotá

Six varieties of potatoes are sold at this stall, including papa pastusa, sabanera and criolla - the 3 needed to make ajiaco!

colombian plantains

Jorge (left) has been selling platanos/plantains at the Plaza for 32 years! They are used green or ripe depending on the dish.

Aromatic herbs at Paloquemao

German sells all kinds of herbs! For just a quarter dollar, he can sell you an armful of peppermint, lemon balm, chamomile, lemon grass and basil.

Catfish from the Magdalena River

Catfish from the Magdalena River

Mojarra colombia

Mojarra - usually served on the coast. fried whole and served with coconut rice and patacones (fried plantains).

Butcher Bogotá

Business as usual for butcher's at Paloquemao.

Eggs at Paloquemao

Fresh eggs from happy hens.

quail eggs

Beautiful quail eggs

Flowers

Flowers at Paloquemao

If you have a chance to visit the market while you are in Bogotá, then do. Remember, the earlier the better and you can get a typical breakfast and fresh fruit juice at one of the many food stalls in the market while you’re there. Try going with Mike’s Bogotá Bike tours or just jump in a cab and go to:

Plaza de Mercado de Paloquemao – Avenida 19 # 25-04

Mon – Fri: 5:00 am-4:30 pm

Sat – Sun: 5:00 am-2:00 pm

Check out this post from last year featuring a video filmed in the market – great song, great video…

Posted in Bogotá, Colombia, Eats | Tagged , , , , , , | 4 Comments

La Botica de Café: Colombian coffee gets sophisticated

Posted on January 20, 2012 by

La Botica de Café at the new Bogotá Hilton is creating coffee culture. A tinto (black coffee) in most places can be, and oftentimes is, average  - probably from not being prepared properly or from sitting in a coffee pot or thermos for too long. Not to mention the fact that most of the best coffee beans are exported to places with sophisticated coffee cultures. But even from the point of view of a staunch tea drinker, coffee at La Botica de Café is something to look forward to and savor – like a good glass of wine. 

Kyoto Slow Dripper

Bogotá’s continued gastronomic evolution has brought a lot of new players to the coffee scene who want to showcase Colombian coffee domestically. In this case, Cafe Devotion is responsible for putting Colombian coffee in its right place – on a pedestal in the middle of Bogotá, where else?

You step inside from the mad rush of the septima (one of Bogotá’s busiest streets) and suddenly you feel like you’ve been transported to a Parisian apothecary (Botica means pharmacy). Its charming decoration makes you want to sit back and read through the list of Boutique, Grand Cru and Exotic coffees, each with a very detailed outline of the bean’s origin, flavor profile, and recommended brewing methods, depending on the kind of coffee and its qualities (Espresso, Pour over dripper, French press, Sifon and Kyoto slow dripper).

You can tell that there is a lot of passion behind La Botica de Café and whether you are a coffee connoisseur or just an amateur, you should stop by and check it out. A cup of 100% Colombian coffee can cost you between $3,500 and $15,000 pesos and there is a selection of cookies and cakes to accompany your selection. The staff is also well-versed in the subject of coffee and is more than happy to help you decide what to order in case you feel overwhelmed with choices.

Botica de CaféHILTON Bogotá – street level

Carrera 7 # 72-41

Photographs courtesy of Mark Genney

Posted in Bogotá, Drinks | Tagged , , , , , , , | 3 Comments