Andrés Carne de Res in Chía & Andrés D.C.

Posted on February 13, 2012 by

30 years in the making: a Colombian wining, dining, partying institution

There are some places that go beyond ordinary and become legendary. Andrés Carne de Res in Chía (about 40 minutes outside of Bogotá) is one of these places. Ask just about anyone in Bogotá what a tourist should do before leaving the country, and chances are that Andrés will be one of the many things they recommend.

andrés carne de res chia

When I was little I named my pretend restaurant Diana Carne de Rana. Carne de Rana translates to Frog Meat – not a lot of things rhyme with Diana, so rana was the best I could do. The point is, I was very aware of this place even in my childhood and now it’s still one of the best places to have an unforgettable time.

Opened by Andrés Jaramillo in 1982, this was once a little roadside grill and it hasn’t stopped growing since. Andrés and his team are constantly innovating and paying close attention to the details, making this restaurant/rumbiadero/night club a timeless classic.

The menu is extensive (the current “edition” has 62 pages), but as the name of the place implies, the various cuts of beef (res) and other meats of Colombian and Argentinian origin are the most popular. There are also several vegetarian options as well as an array of Colombian cuisine. It’s a great place to sample Colombia’s food and festive spirit, all in one crazy place. As the night carries on, the lights are dimmed, the music gets louder, the dance floor gets packed and the party goes on until 3am.

Fried Colombian food

Colombian fried food sampler - patacón, empanadas, yuca, papa criolla, chicharrón, chorizo, and morcilla - it may be a heart attack on a platter, but at least you'll die happy!

Fresh fruit snack at Andrés

Fresh fruit to snack on - grapes, green mango, coconut, uchuva (gooseberry) and orange

The quality of the food and service is usually excellent and on top of that you have a crew of actors, clowns and musicians wandering around the restaurant entertaining guests and honoring visitors with sashes, crowns and serenades. This place has a thing for making everyone feel special – can you imagine what a birthday is like here? They go ALL out, embarrass the hell out of you, and you can’t wipe the smile off your face. It’s all in good fun and they do a great job.

tequila shots at andres

Complementary tequila shots served in a hollowed out lime...don't forget to squeeze.

Amid the chaos of pumping music, intoxicating celebration, throngs of people dancing and mingling, hundreds of tables, bric-a-brac decoration with a Colombia edge, the eats and drinks, and then some, the servers always seem to have everything under control. Most are university students and their attitude is always surprisingly up-beat – working as a server in Andrés must be like getting a masters degree in working under pressure.

As far as prices go, they can be pretty steep and a lot of people complain about it saying that you spend your entire salary on one visit (this may be true especially if you earn in pesos), but what you get in return is a one of a kind experience. I go maybe once a year, if that, and I always have fun. It isn’t cheap but I’ve been to my share of restaurants and clubs and none compare to the Andrés experience.

"You are here"

Andrés Carne de Res now has a second location in the city called Andrés D.C. (and a separate food court, La Plaza de Andrés). Conveniently located right in the middle of the Zona Rosa and keeping with the same style, food and festivities of the original in Chia, it’s a great party option if you don’t want to make the trip to Chía.

It’s highly recommended to make reservations for both locations, especially on weekends. If you have children you can’t get in after 6pm, so go for lunch and let the kids enjoy a ton of activities. Keep in mind that after a certain hour, and even with reservations, you still get charged a cover. The last time I went to Andrés in Chía, we organized a group of 15 friends from Colombia, Australia, USA, Holland, Venezuela and Spain and rented a small van – it was perfect, affordable and we didn’t have to worry about driving back afterwards.

Remember the Harvard study that says that buying experiences, not possessions, leads to greater happiness? Well, let’s go with that theory and make some memories surrounded by good food and music, a lot of laughing and dancing, and most importantly, some Colombian spirit.

Andrés Carne de Res/Chía: Variante a Cota, Chía (or just ask a local)

Andrés D.C.: Calle 81# 11-94 El Retiro

Tel: 863-7880

http://www.andrescarnederes.com/

Posted in Bogotá, Colombia, Drinks, Eats | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Colombia’s Official Blogger Program Takes Off

Posted on February 8, 2012 by

Yesterday Proexport launched its new Official Blogger initiative. 33 bloggers, yours truly included, will share their stories about Colombia with the world, through their eyes, ears and taste-buds, enticing tourists and investors alike to come and experience Colombia.

Official Bloggers - Photo courtesy of http://seecolombia.travel/

We all got together at the Hotel de la Opera in La Candelaria for breaskfast followed by an introduction and information session. We then hit the streets for an Amazing Race-like scavenger hunt around Bogotá’s historic center. It rained a little, of course, but with Simón Bolívar as our leader, we persevered.

Simon Bolivar - El Libertador

Bookmark this page: http://www.colombia.travel/es/official-bloggers to get all the latest blog posts in English, Spanish, German, French and Portuguese (Coming soon! The site will be loaded with posts and bios in no time). Each blogger will be required to post at least twice a month and in exchange we’ll increase web traffic to our blog page and have the possibility of receiving invitations to special events and trips to some of Colombia’s hottest destinations.

I’m honored and excited to be a part of this crew and to continue sharing my Colombia with you and hopefully many more! The idea is brilliant and I’m sure that with such a diverse group of bloggers telling it how they see it, there will be something for everyone and everyone will be booking their next vacation to Colombia.

Posted in Bogotá, Colombia, Travel | Tagged , , , , , , | 15 Comments

Paloquemao Market: A Bogotá must-see

Posted on January 30, 2012 by

The Plaza de Mercado de Paloquemao is one of Bogotá’s most important markets for fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, dairy, flowers, and much more. It was founded in 1946, and has been in its current location since 1967.  Pawel, a friend from Poland, was gracious enough to let me borrow some of the beautiful images he captured of the market and the people that work there. Take a look…

Paloquemao tower, Bogotá

Welcome to Paloquemao market

Guanabana in Paloquemao

José, holding a guanabana, has been working in Paloquemao for 25 years. He inherited the business from his father.

Tomate de arbol, tree tomato or tamarillo

Tomate de árbol a.k.a tree tomato or tamarillo is native to Andean countries like Colombia.

Bananas in Paloquemao

Bananas sold by Rodrigo. For 1 USD you can get as many as 20 pieces.

cubios, root vegetable from Boyacá

Cubios - a small root vegetable from Cundinamarca and Boyacá.

Bogotá

Six varieties of potatoes are sold at this stall, including papa pastusa, sabanera and criolla - the 3 needed to make ajiaco!

colombian plantains

Jorge (left) has been selling platanos/plantains at the Plaza for 32 years! They are used green or ripe depending on the dish.

Aromatic herbs at Paloquemao

German sells all kinds of herbs! For just a quarter dollar, he can sell you an armful of peppermint, lemon balm, chamomile, lemon grass and basil.

Catfish from the Magdalena River

Catfish from the Magdalena River

Mojarra colombia

Mojarra - usually served on the coast. fried whole and served with coconut rice and patacones (fried plantains).

Butcher Bogotá

Business as usual for butcher's at Paloquemao.

Eggs at Paloquemao

Fresh eggs from happy hens.

quail eggs

Beautiful quail eggs

Flowers

Flowers at Paloquemao

If you have a chance to visit the market while you are in Bogotá, then do. Remember, the earlier the better and you can get a typical breakfast and fresh fruit juice at one of the many food stalls in the market while you’re there. Try going with Mike’s Bogotá Bike tours or just jump in a cab and go to:

Plaza de Mercado de Paloquemao – Avenida 19 # 25-04

Mon – Fri: 5:00 am-4:30 pm

Sat – Sun: 5:00 am-2:00 pm

Check out this post from last year featuring a video filmed in the market – great song, great video…

Posted in Bogotá, Colombia, Eats | Tagged , , , , , , | 4 Comments

La Botica de Café: Colombian coffee gets sophisticated

Posted on January 20, 2012 by

La Botica de Café at the new Bogotá Hilton is creating coffee culture. A tinto (black coffee) in most places can be, and oftentimes is, average  - probably from not being prepared properly or from sitting in a coffee pot or thermos for too long. Not to mention the fact that most of the best coffee beans are exported to places with sophisticated coffee cultures. But even from the point of view of a staunch tea drinker, coffee at La Botica de Café is something to look forward to and savor – like a good glass of wine. 

Kyoto Slow Dripper

Bogotá’s continued gastronomic evolution has brought a lot of new players to the coffee scene who want to showcase Colombian coffee domestically. In this case, Cafe Devotion is responsible for putting Colombian coffee in its right place – on a pedestal in the middle of Bogotá, where else?

You step inside from the mad rush of the septima (one of Bogotá’s busiest streets) and suddenly you feel like you’ve been transported to a Parisian apothecary (Botica means pharmacy). Its charming decoration makes you want to sit back and read through the list of Boutique, Grand Cru and Exotic coffees, each with a very detailed outline of the bean’s origin, flavor profile, and recommended brewing methods, depending on the kind of coffee and its qualities (Espresso, Pour over dripper, French press, Sifon and Kyoto slow dripper).

You can tell that there is a lot of passion behind La Botica de Café and whether you are a coffee connoisseur or just an amateur, you should stop by and check it out. A cup of 100% Colombian coffee can cost you between $3,500 and $15,000 pesos and there is a selection of cookies and cakes to accompany your selection. The staff is also well-versed in the subject of coffee and is more than happy to help you decide what to order in case you feel overwhelmed with choices.

Botica de CaféHILTON Bogotá – street level

Carrera 7 # 72-41

Photographs courtesy of Mark Genney

Posted in Bogotá, Drinks | Tagged , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

El Cocuy National Park, Boyacá (and a little lamb)

Posted on January 10, 2012 by
Sunset Cocuy National Park

Sunrise at Lagunillas, El Cocuy National Park

A few months ago I jumped at the chance to go on a 5-day trekking adventure in Colombia’s El Cocuy National Park in the Department of Boyacá (about a 10 hour bus ride from Bogotá). It was hard, it was grueling, and the food was most definitely not the high point, but having the opportunity to kick off 2012 in the middle of one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been to was truly amazing.

Laguna Grande de la Sierra seen from the top of Pan de Azúcar

On the evening of December 29th, Juanma, Amy and I took off with Carlos our gung-ho mountaineering guide from Caminatas Deportivas (check out his Facebook page here and take advantage of his day hikes around Bogotá) . I knew it would be hard and it was – we endured the nerve-wracking 10 hour bus ride (both ways), a 17 hour hike on the first day, horseback riding up and down steep mountains, camping in extremely cramped and cold conditions, snow trekking, regular trekking, climbing and too much canned food, among other things, but we survived to tell the tale. Hallelujah!

Every time I reached the top of a mountain, out of breath and exhausted, a new wave of energy swept through me as my eyes met the most breathtaking views I’ve ever seen in my life. Snow capped mountains, turquoise-colored lakes, sweeping landscapes and beauty  in every direction.

El Púlpito del Diablo/The Devil's Pulpit

Should you choose to visit – and I highly recommend you do – there are several options for accommodation. If you aren’t down for camping, the Hacienda La Esperanza is a great spot. Its hosts, Don Marco and his wife Astrid, are incredibly kind and know the area well. Their home is a cozy and very rustic 100-year old house, Astrid’s cooking is exactly what you need after a long hike, and there is electricity which is nice – especially if you want to take a hot shower and recharge your phone or camera. You can opt to get to the snow-capped mountains or lakes by foot, horseback or jeep.

And now for the best part – a little lamb.

As I mentioned, food was not the reason I chose this trip but there was one moment where I did get very excited about food and that’s when Don Marco Arturo’s arrieros (farm hands/cowboys/trail guides) carried a whole lamb into the courtyard for butchering. Don Marco happens to raise award-winning sheep and his guests often have the pleasure of enjoying a little lamb once in a while.

Lamb at Hacienda La Esperanza, Cocuy, Boyacá

So when I saw the lamb I thought: should I ride up to the Laguna Grande de la Sierra for two nights of camping and more canned beans, or should I  fake an injury and stay at La Esperanza eating lamb – lots of lamb. Fortunately, some of the lamb was going to be prepared for us anyways on the day we returned…so, that would be my reward for climbing, trekking and riding around like a pioneer woman.

Laguna Grande de la Sierra, El Cocuy National Park, Boyacá

Laguna Grande de la Sierra

We arrived back at the Hacienda two days later and were greeted by Astrid and a glass of refreshing aguapanela with mint. Shortly after that I was having some of the most delicious lamb ever – and not just because I was starving and absolutely done with canned food for a long, long time. It was juicy and tender and I could have eaten the entire leg. (Lunch at the Hacienda costs $10,000)

Lamb, papa chorreada (boiled potatoes covered in a cheesy tomato sauce - very typical), rice and spinach casserole

And that was that. We hopped on a bus to Bogotá and now we’re back and it all feels like a dream. Someday I’d like to do it all over again and I’d only make a few adjustments – a bigger tent, no 17 hour hikes, a cook to prepare real food while I’m out trekking, and definitely more of Astrid and Don Marco’s hospitality and lamb, of course…

haciendalaesperanza@gmail.com

Contact #’s: (57 1) 310 209 9812 / 313 473 0990

Beauty surrounds us. -Rumi

Posted in Boyacá, Colombia, Travel | Tagged , , , , , | 3 Comments

TEJO: Colombia’s national sport

Posted on December 20, 2011 by

A couple of weeks ago I went to an end of the year party and we didn’t go dancing or riding around town in a chiva. Even better. We went to play Tejo. This Colombian sport involves hurling a heavy piece of metal towards a clay target laced with packets of gunpowder – yes, tiny explosives.

I dare say tejo is now one of my favorite sports. For one, it’s ancient. Indigenous people from the departments of Boyacá and Cundinamarca have been playing the game (then known as turmequé) for over 500 years, only back then they used heavy discs made of solid gold called ”zepguagoscua”.  And then came those sweet old Spaniards with their horses, diseases and gunpowder. After that, small explosives were added to the game. And then there’s beer, beer, and more beer. This sport has fun written all over it.

Aim at the little pink triangles filled with gunpowder!

Did I mention there’s a lot of beer? It would be entirely too much work for a waitress to be taking beer orders every minute so instead the solution is to bring out an entire basket. We were a big group so it actually did make a lot of sense. Most places don’t charge you for the lane – as long as you buy a basket of beer, the lane is yours. Although drinking beer goes hand in hand with playing tejo, this game actually does require a lot of skill and practice. Only three of us (yes, I was one of them) actually hit the target and were rewarded with a small explosion.

And then there’s the food – this is a food blog after all. However, I wouldn’t say food is the highlight of this outing but one does work up an appetite. We ordered an assortment of boiled potatoes, plantains, chicken, beef, and morcilla and we devoured it all with generous spoonfuls of ají to spice it all up, and washed down with beer, of course.

You can play tejo in the city and in the countryside, outdoors and indoors, and any way you  choose, I bet you’ll have a great time. Below are two videos: one is in Spanish and seems to be from the 70′s and the other is a Lonely Planet video that shows a slightly more professional setting for playing (there’s not a beer in sight).

tejo, turmequé, boyacá

Statue of an indigenous man playing tejo in the municipality of Turmequé, Boyacá

Posted in Bogotá, Boyacá, Colombia | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

MASA: fresh out of the oven in Bogotá

Posted on December 5, 2011 by

MASA opened on a very auspicious day – 11/11/11 – and is now offering such an overwhelming array of baked goods that you might just end up overeating – it’s very possible and I say that from experience. It’s impossible to not want to try everything.

Silvana is a CIA-trained chef (that’s the Culinary Institute of America) who returned to Colombia after a stint in New York city to open this spot with her sister Mariana. The place has only been open a few weeks and has already been nominated for Best New Restaurant by vive.in.

Breakfast and brunch are perhaps my favorite meals.  An assorted bread basket, an airy frittata with asparagus, an egg, bacon and cheese sandwich, a fresh fruit salad, coffee and juice – it’s the best way to start the day. As far as the juices go, I’ve become a huge fan of the Chicha de Patilla – watermelon juice, with chunks of watermelon and a secret ingredient.

 Then lunch: a warm bowl of soup, a sandwich, a salad? So far everything I’ve tried has been fresh and satisfying, including the take-away salad I picked up last week for lunch. Or the spinach soup, open-faced smoked salmon sandwich, and sinful chocolate cake I had the week before that.

And then dessert. You’ll notice something at Masa – that little voice in the back of your head whispering ever so softly: chocolate chocolate chunk cookies, home made doughnuts, a giant slice of chocolate cake, carrot cake, almond croissant, pistachio tart, cupcakes? I don’t know about you, but the little voice in the back of my head is very, very persuasive.

Aside from the food, the space is warmly decorated with a communal table and ample covered outdoor seating with a heater so you can watch the activity in Bogotá’s Zona G. The carefully selected music  playing in the background also lends an important touch to the making of a really welcoming spot.

I see a bright future for Masa and the young girls at the helm of this operation, and I for one look forward to being around as they perfect every detail, a finger-licking work in progress, and add to Bogotá’s growing, diverse food scene.

Calle 70 # 4-83

Tel: 211.0899

www.somosmasa.com

http://www.facebook.com/somosmasa

Posted in Bogotá, Desserts, Eats | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

Arepas in Tena, Colombia

Posted on November 24, 2011 by

A few weeks ago I had the pleasure of visiting a very small town called Tena, about an hour and a half outside of Bogotá (via la Mesa). There isn’t much to see in Tena but the surroundings are beautiful, the weather is warm and yellow corn arepas are cooked on a slab of rock. Good stuff.

Posted in Colombia, Eats | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Tropical Passion – chocolate + tropical fruit

Posted on October 13, 2011 by

I finally got a taste of Tropical Passion’s gorgeous bites of chocolate and tropical fruit  last week at the annual Feria de Gastronomía here in Bogotá. 

I bought a mango one to try and began nibbling on the top part when the stand attendant made a wise suggestion – eat the whole thing, please, in one bite. Of course, that’s the way to go if you want the heavenly experience of smooth chocolately filling and slightly tart fruit leather melting in your mouth. Oh wow…..heaven.

TROPICAL PASSION was definitely the highlight of the entire fair. Below are the different gift boxes available directly from Tropical Passion or from their distributors.

Tropical flavors include: Mango, Mora, Guanábana, Papaya, Tangerine, Guava, Coconut, and Pineapple, among others.

Telephone: (571) 533 8263
Cel:  (311)  531 8590
Email: info@tropicalpassion.com.co

Also sold at other locations listed here on Tropical Passion’s website.

Posted in Bogotá, Colombia, Eats | Tagged , , , | 3 Comments

Hearts of Palm with an attitude

Posted on October 7, 2011 by

Posted in Colombia, Humor | Tagged , , | 1 Comment