La Fama: Smoky southern barbecue a la Colombiana

Address: Calle 65 Bis # 4-85 (between 4th and 5th streets), Bogotá 
Reservations: 644.7766

It seems that Bogotá is currently swimming in a sea of North American-inspired food trends. At least a handful of new hamburger joints seem to pop up every few months, I see comfort foods like mac and cheese on menus more and more often, food trucks are just now rearing up to be “the next big thing”, and real barbecue is gaining momentum. Case in point…

Bogotá Barbecue

Even though I’m all for Colombian gastronomy and its growth and appreciation, I do believe that every capital city should have a large variety of restaurants. Enter La Fama, Bogotá’s first southern barbecue restaurant and innovators of the Colombian barbecue.

What is a Colombian barbecue? It consists of using the hump of the beautiful Cebú cow, pictured below. I’ve been a fan of these animals ever since I can remember and not necessarily for their meat; they’re just really cute. Aren’t they?

Cebu cow

Anyways, the menu at La Fama has all kinds of barbecued meat like pork ribs, pork belly, chicken wings, brisket, baby back ribs, chicken, suckling pig, and then some. But all those are your everyday cuts of meat…what really defines this Colombian barbecue is the hump or morrillo, a part of the cow that is not usually considered a prime cut.

In order to make this place as authentic as possible, a couple of pro butchers (None other than Tom Mylan and Brent Young of Brooklyn’s The Meat Hook) were brought from the States to help out. During their quest to find the best brisket, they came across, and barbecued, the hump and the rest is history…very recent history, but history nonetheless. I didn’t even know you could eat the hump. Did you?

From top right (clockwise): BBQ ribs, brisket, onion rings, murrillo (hump), coleslaw.

From top right (clockwise): BBQ ribs, brisket, onion rings, murrillo (hump), coleslaw.

Well, you can. And as you can kind of make out in the picture above, it is marbled with fat and that is very much a good thing.

Meat, meat, meat!

Did I mention I am on the verge of becoming a vegetarian? Yes, well, it’s not easy (I’ll elaborate in another blog post) but I am trying to eat a lot less meat of any kind which brought me to La Fama for a second time (I ate a lot of meat the first time) in order to to try their salad. All by its lonesome on the meat-heavy menu, the salad turned out to be one of the best I’ve had in Bogotá. Of course, the waiter’s idea is for you to order the salad with a pile of meat on top, but it does beautifully on its own, accompanied by a meatless appetizer or side dish, of which there are quite a few.

La Fama salad

My final verdict is that La Fama is a welcome addition to the Bogotá food scene. It is a meat lovers paradise but also a somewhat veg-friendly spot. They have comforting desserts like pecan pie and an ice cream sandwich, unpretentious ambience which is supposed to make people comfortable enough to eat with their hands (some highfalutin Bogotanos have this “thing” where they eat everything with a fork and knife…even burgers and ribs…it’s mind-boggling), and a great soundtrack of BBQ appropriate music.

La Fama interior

Also, La Fama has a conscience: it sources its meat from responsible farms that care about the wellbeing of their animals, part of the restaurant is run by solar power, rainwater is used in the bathrooms, and probably some other sustainable, earth-friendly things that I don’t know about.

I leave you with a series of 3 excellent videos (in spanish and english with subtitles in spanish) that show part of the process that led to the creation of one of 2012s most anticipated restaurants, La Fama:

Posted in Bogotá, Colombia, Eats, Ingredients | Tagged , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Slow Food Bogotá – The Yuca Event

Slow foodSo, I went to a Slow Food Bogotá event back in November of 2012 and I’m just posting it now…no, this is not an April Fools joke. It actually took me nearly 5 months to post this…yeah, I know.

Anyways, the Taste Workshop event focused on yuca and was hosted by Slow Food Bogotá and Mundo Wok. To be honest, I was surprised at the quality of the event. After all, I’ve been back in Colombia for five (going on six) years now and these are the first signs of life from the local Slow Food convivium. I really hope that there are many many more events like it.

Caguana de yuca brava

Caguana de yuca brava

The event began with a yuca cocktail, of course. Yuca juice, soy milk, gulupa juice and sake – unusual, yes, but it tasted like something I would order again. Next were the appetizers: first a kind of chicha called Caguana de Yuca Brava made by the Uitoto indigenous community of Putumayo. Two representatives from this community were present to discuss the role of yuca in their culture.

For instance, men have very little to do with yuca at any stage. It’s the women who organize the planting, clearing of land, harvesting, preparation and cooking. While sitting around the hearth, grandmothers will appoint their daughters and granddaughters to different tasks. It takes a special woman, with special hands, to plant yuca, and it takes another kind of woman with different skills to  peel and grate yuca. This kind of wisdom and know-how is passed down generation to generation every year.

The next appetizer was Mote de yuca y queso costeño made by one of my favorite chefs in Bogotá, Diana García of Diana Garcia – Chef en Movimiento. It was a shot glass portion of a yuca-based soup with chunks of salty cheese from the coast. Traditionally mote is made of corn but being a yuca event, another chef challeneged her to make it with yuca and the result was a success.

The final appetizer was inspired by tapas called montaditos and created by chef Tomás Rueda from Tábula (one of the restaurants that Tony Bourdain visited for his new show). A slice of morcilla (Colombian blood sausage) sat atop a cripsy breaded croquette of yuca and cauliflower. This one was a winner for me. The textures, flavors and aroma of the herb used in morcilla called poleo, made it a hit. I only wish we could have had more than one!

After a chat by a representative from the organization Semillas de Identidad about the conservation of native seeds and the traditional production of yuca in different areas of Colombia, and an introduction to Slow Food by Lia Poggio, the Director of Latin American operations, we moved to the dining area for the main course tastings paired with Bogotá Beer Company beers.

Again Diana García spoiled us with a Guiso de Camarones en leche de coco titoté. A small serving of perfectly cooked shrimp and bites of tender yuca in a mild coconut milk sauce. There were a few bites of eggplant and bell peppers for color and presentation but the sauce is what really made the dish. We had jugo de corozo (the fruit of a palm tree) which is made by boiling corozo seeds and then straining them. Delicious.

Guiso de Camarones en leche de coco titoté

Guiso de Camarones en leche de coco titoté

Next came a yuca souffle with goat cheese and pink peppercorns. The souffle was delicate although not as light as a traditional souffle due to the density of the yuca. It was however delicious and the presentation in the yuca skin was impressive and an excellent use of raw materials.

Yuca Souffle by Chef Klaas de Meulder

Yuca Souffle by Chef Klaas de Meulder

A smoked chicken dish came next, prepared by another one of my favorite chefs, Eduardo Martinez from Mini-Mal. He implemented a smoking technique used by amazonian cultures and although the dish was extremely simple in presentation, the flavors were full and complex. The chicken skin was one of the best I’ve ever had. Not greasy at all and so crispy. The yuca thickend broth reminded me of a sticky brodo I had in a restaurant in Australia years ago. So good I only stopped to take a picture of my last bite…

The last bite...

The last bite…

And finally desert by another chef from Mini-Mal, Antonuela Ariza. A trio of desserts were presented on a wooden sushi dish and included yuca cookies, yuca caviar (tapioca pearls) flavored with camu camu (an amazonian berry), enyucado (a traditional yuca-based dessert from the Colombian coast), and some yuca ice cream made with pureed yuca. I could have eaten a lot more of this dessert but I was so full at this point that I could barely manage. I was so pleased with the quality of the food and the explanations given by the chefs regarding how they decided on their dish and what inspired them.

Trio of yuca desserts

Trio of yuca desserts

At the end of the night I was completely content, as they say here in Colombia “Barriga llena, corazón contento” (Full belly, happy heart!). I learned so much and ate so well – I hope to become more involved in Slow Food here and make sure that events like this happen more often and that they get more exposure.

I bet most people – even most Colombians – don’t know that there are hundreds of varieties of yuca and that the most poisnonous varieties are bitter and contain traces of cyanide and that’s why they are planted around the sweeter varieties to protect them from pests. I bet most Colombians don’t even know how versatile our humble little yuca is, or can be…if you’ve only ever eaten yuca fried or boiled, you simply haven’t lived.

Thanks, Slow Food. I’m ready for the next event and I promise it won’t take me 5 months to write about it.

Posted in Bogotá, Coastal cuisine, Colombia, Contemporary Colombian cuisine, Culinary History, Eats, Gastronomy, Ingredients | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Weekend Getaway: Cartagena de Indias

I’ve been to Cartagena three times in my life. Once when I was about 7 years old (my memories consist of the hotel pool), once for work (the company I worked for paid for everything), and again towards the end of last year for a proper vacation (I was in the right place at the right time and won two nights at the Hotel Las Américas!). So basically, I’ve managed to visit this beautiful city almost entirely on someone else’s expense three times…pretty good for not even trying.

A room with a view...

A room with a view…

So, of course we stayed at the Hotel Las Américas, a world-class hotel and convention center right on the beach (Currently nominated for Best Hotel in Colombia – Premios La Barra 2013). It has two parts: the older Casa de Playa and the very new and shiny Torre del Mar.  Casa de Playa has a more family resort feel to it and Torre del Mar is brand-spanking new, modern and has an awesome 10th floor adults-only pool (fantastic views!). Aside from the hotel’s amenities, the staff was incredibly friendly and accomodating and the food was delicious albeit a bit pricey…this is Cartagena, after all.

We took our bags to our fancy ocean view room and then went immediately down to the beach…

Hotel Las Américas

BTW, you can follow Bogotá Eats & Drinks on Instagram – BogotaEats

On any beach in Cartagena you are likely to encounter vendors (jewelry, clothes, food, etc.) and they will inevitably try to get as much money out of you as possible. Word to the wise: settle (haggle) on a price before you accept any “free samples” of deliciously fresh crab or oysters.  All vendors tend to be very friendly at first but they are also very persistent (they are trying to make a living after all). Be nice but don’t be an easy target either. We were still fresh off the plane and thus ended up shelling out a chunk of cash before the hotel’s beach security guard came to our rescue. Yes, there is a security guard for this particular reason…

Buying ceviche de camarón from a beach vendor.

Buying ceviche de camarón from a beach vendor.

On another note, the Hotel Las Américas website lists no less than sixteen bars and restaurants – and that’s not including the new one that’s opening soon with a Michelin starred chef. For someone who loves to eat, this can result in a lengthy decision-making process. Where to eat? Fortunately the choice was clear - Kiosco Cielo Mar - right on the beach. I ordered the best Shrimp Coconut Rice ever (I’m very close to recreating the recipe!). Of course I also had about as much limonada de coco (coconut lemonade) as humanly possible – you can’t go to Cartagena and not have this drink. Forget your diet and sip away!

Beachfront dining

Beachfront dining

Now, you can’t (and absolutely shouldn’t) stay at the resort the entire time you’re in Cartagena. Hotel Las Américas is a short drive from Cartagena’s colonial walled city and fortress (UNESCO World Heritage site) and they offer a very convenient free shuttle service to and from the beautiful ciudad amurallada throughout the day. We went into town for dinner one night, to visit the Castillo San Felipe the next day and then in the late afternoon we took a bike tour with Vélo Tours.

Getting to know Cartagena by bike, or getting to know ANY city by bike (see the Top 5 Things I did in Boston post), is simply the best way to get to know a place. If you are in Cartagena for a few days I’d recommend doing a tour like this one in order to get a better feel for the city. It starts to cool down after 3pm and you can enjoy watching the sun set from some beautiful spots.

Velo Bike Tours Other musts while in Cartagena include the obvious Castillo San Felipe de Barajas,  the Convento de la Popa, a convent founded in 1607 which overlooks the city, and strolling the beautifully preserved streets of the ciudad amurallada. Needless to say there are dozens of things to do and museums to visit and festivals throughout the year that I’ve never experienced. Coming from chilly Bogotá makes me just want to sit on the beach or by the pool the entire time – I was just starting to thaw out when we had to come back home.

View from atop the Castillo San Felipe with it's enormous flag.

View from atop the Castillo San Felipe with it’s enormous flag.

La popa cartagena

The beautiful courtyard of La Popa.

In terms of eats and drinks, there are so many options. Somehow on this trip, food became secondary to other activities. I did manage to make a quick visit to a little place called Donde Fidel at one end of the Portal de Los Dulces in the Plaza de los Coches (stock up on the local sweets while you’re there). You’ll find locals, salsa music and ice cold beer at this place. It’s low key and one of my favorite watering holes in town.

The sound system at Donde Fidel...and a must-have beer.

The sound system at Donde Fidel…and a must-have beer.

And finally, on our last day in Cartagena we took to the water. You can book a trip to Playa Blanca for the day (I recently found out that you can sleep there too which lets you enjoy the beach before and after the throngs of people and boats and vendors arrive). The cost of the day trip includes rountrip transportation by boat to the beach and lunch.

playa blanca lunch

Lunch at Playa Blanca – you can also buy ceviches, fresh fruit, coconut water and sweets from the many beach vendors.

After a whole day of ocean and beach we were in dire need of a shower before boarding the plane back to Bogotá. Fortunately the very kind people at Hotel Las Américas let us use their spa showers and changing rooms to get travel-ready (although all I really wanted to do was get a massage at the spa)…

We made it to the airport with plenty of time to have some ceviche at Ceviche Rico – apparently something all high-profile travelers, like ourselves, like to do. Not a bad way to bid farewell to such a lovely city…

A beautiful balcony in Cartagena de Indias

A beautiful balcony in Cartagena de Indias

Now, my only question is — who is going to take me to Cartagena next?

Posted in Coastal cuisine, Colombia, Eats, Travel | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 9 Comments

Chopinar: Chorizos, Pinchos & Arepas

Chopinar is a small fast food chain that serves some rather tasty Colombian snacks. You may have seen them around Bogotá at gas stations or at some free standing locations, but you’ll probably remember them because of Babe, the talking pig on their logo. It’s always nice to be reminded of what (or who) you’re eating, right? No, of course it’s not. But anyways…

The name – Chopinar – is a mash up of the 3 items served at this place –  CHORIZO, PINCHO and AREPA. The important thing to remember is not that you are eating a little piggy but that the arepa with cheese is one of the best in town and that the chorizo and beef, chicken and pork pinchos (skewers) are perfect accompaniments to that arepa. The portions are also small enough that you could make it a snack or a meal depending on how hungry you are.

I remember the first time I took my family – they were all very skeptical. “Let’s just order one basket for the 5 of us”, they said. But before we got through the first basket someone had been nominated to go order 4 more. Need I say more?

It’s not fancy by any means, but it’s fast food and it’s Colombian – two things that are often only found in street food.

Chopinar has several locations around the city. The original is on Calle 53 # 16-04.

Other locations include:

  • Avenida Boyacá # 49-48
  • Cll. 151 # 32-19
  • Cll. 68 # 26-55
  • Ave. (Cra.) 30 Calle 70
Posted in Bogotá, Eats | Tagged , , , , | 7 Comments

Las Margaritas: Traditional Bogotano Cuisine in the heart of Chapinero

Once upon a time, Chapinero was one of Bogotá’s nicest areas. Wealthy families lived in what is now one of the city’s largest and oldest neighborhoods (after La Candelaria and Teusaquillo). Over the years, the area has become slightly run down and gritty, which has its charm and gives the neighborhood a distinct personality.

Old Bogotá

Given its history, Chapinero has seen a lot. People, restaurants and shop owners have come and gone, but for the last 110 years, Las Margaritas hasn’t stopped serving up traditional santafereño or bogotano fare. What kind of food is that? Well, to start it isn’t pretentious or fancy but definitely flavorful and filling.

For example, the well-known ajiaco – a Bogotá icon. This hearty soup is made with three kinds of potatoes – criolla, sabanera and pastusa – a native herb called guasca, and additions like chicken, corn on the cob, avocado, capers, cream and ají. At Las Margaritas you can go old school and order ajiaco with a whole chicken quarter on the side, or you can choose the easy route and order it with shredded chicken already in the soup, like me.

Another popular dish is the puchero bogotano. Only served on Thursdays, this stew gets its name from the clay pot in which it was originally cooked in Spain. When the conquistadors came to Colombia they brought their food with them and the rest is history. Some ingredients have changed here and there over the years, but the idea remains the same.

The meats and vegetables (beef, chicken, chorizo, plantain, yucca, arracacha, cabbage, potato and corn) are all cooked in the broth, but when it comes to serving time, the broth comes out first and the rest comes out afterwards smothered in hogao (onion and tomato mixture). It’s a feast to be sure and you definitely get your money’s worth.

Other popular dishes include sobrebarriga, lengua (beef tongue), and breakfast with the works (tamal, changua, hot chocolate, etc.).

For a bit of Bogotano history makes sure to stop at Las Margaritas (also a stop on the Bogotá Eats & Drinks Food Tours) and don’t even think of leaving without trying the empanadas. According to Julio Rios, the owner of Las Margaritas, they are the “ferrari of empanadas” and account for almost half of the restaurants earnings.

Las Margaritas

Calle 62 # 7-77

Tel: (+57 1) 249-9468 / 345-3156

Mon-Thurs 12:00-4:30 p.m.

Friday 12:00 – 6:30 p.m.

Saturday, Sunday and holidays 8:00a.m. – 6:30p.m.

Posted in Andean cuisine, Bogotá, Colombia, Culinary History, Eats | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

Top 5 things I did (and ate) in Boston, MA

I can’t believe it’s been over a month since I got back from my vacation to Boston. The idea wasn’t to let this much time go by before writing up a quick post about the trip, but I guess it’s better late than never. Here are some highlights and things I’d recommend if you’re visiting Beantown:

1) Boston North End Market Tour - This was pretty much THE highlight for me because I didn’t just do it for fun but also as research for the Bogotá Eats & Drinks Food Tours. Al was our guide and he was great, leading us around the neighborhood to several stores in the North End. We snacked on Italian pastries, meats, cheeses, olive oils and balsamic vinegar along the way. The day after the tour we went back to Monica’s for an Italian sub. So. Good.

Monica's Mercato

2) Lobster Roll at Belle Isle Seafood – I watch No Reservations every week even if it’s an episode I’ve seen more than once (unfortunately in Colombia, it usually is). So one thing I did before going to Boston was to find out where Tony ate, because even though I don’t know the guy, I trust him when it comes to food. That’s how we ended up at Belle Isle Seafood. There was so much lobster on that roll that you could barely pick it up. It was heavenly, the weather was perfect and we ate outside on a concrete block overlooking Logan airport. Thanks, Tony.

Belle Isle lobster roll

3) Urban Adventours Bike Tour – Going on a bike tour was also a combination of fun and research, and a lot like the food tour, it exceeded our expectations. It was the perfect way to get to know Boston and work in a little exercise after all the eating we’d been doing. Boston is a great town for biking, so if you’re considering doing a tour of the city, please don’t jump on a bus tour – go green and bike it.

UrbanAdventours bike tour

4) Tamarind Bay - I had read a lot about Tamarind Bay before getting to Boston so when we walked right past it in Harvard Square, we decided it should be our dinner. It’s won several awards which is good, but aside from that everything we ordered was fantastic. I love Indian cuisine and we only have about two Indian restaurants to choose from in the entire city of Bogotá so this was a real treat. (No picture available – I was too busy eating.)

5) Otto Pizza – I love pizza. I haven’t really led on to that on this blog because it’s about Bogotá and all but…I really do love pizza. So, after a long day of attending Harvard graduation ceremonies we stopped by this pizza joint from Portland, ME for a quick bite to hold us over till dinner. Otto’s did not disappoint.

Mushroom and ricotta pizza

Mushroom and ricotta pizza at Otto’s – Cambridge, MA

Well, that’s my top 5 for Boston. We packed so many activities and eating into 4 glorious long, sunny days, that I really couldn’t list everything. There was also the dim sum in Chinatown, a soft pretzel in Quincy Market, New England clam chowder at Legal Seafoods, the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, local handcrafted beers, perfect spring weather and long days (not to mention the Cuban food eaten at MIA during our layover) which all made for a great vacation.

Thank you, Boston and Happy 4th of July!

Posted in Eats, Travel | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

An introduction to Colombian cuisine: 5 places to get started

(Guest Post for See Colombia Travel)

Last week I wrote my first guest post for the lovely folks over at See Colombia Travel Colombia Travel Blog. I listed my top 5 restaurants for typical Colombian cuisine in Bogotá. How did I narrow it down to these 5 (plus one bonus) restaurants? Well, it wasn’t easy but quality of food, ambience, price and personality were all factors. Check out my list and let me know what you think…

Gallina (hen) has been served at El Piqueteadero Doña Nieves for 65 years! This family-run establishment strives to keep the recipes just as they were back when the restaurant was founded.

What’s your favorite restaurant in Bogotá for Colombian food?

Posted in Andean cuisine, Bogotá, Colombia, Eats | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Ají: Colombia’s answer to hot sauce

Colombian food is not spicy and aside from a handful of Colombians I know, most aren’t particularly fond of very spicy food. Regardless, this thing we call ají is by far one of Colombia’s most popular condiments and, as its name implies, ají is in fact spicy.

That’s because the word “ají” means chili pepper in Spanish and is also the name given to several variations of this spicy condiment that can go on everything from empanadas to soups to boiled potatoes (like the boiled salted potatoes shown below – papa salada), and so much more.

Ají de Aguacate, Ají de Maní, Ají Casero, Ají de Huevo

At home there is, without fail, always an argument over how spicy to make the ají. Some family members like it HOT (like me and my dad) other family members like it mild. So mild, in fact that according to my dad it’s just a cilantro sauce. I agree. Ají should be spicy, hence the name! But to each his own…

That said, ají reminds me in a way of the preparation of garam masala in India. Each family has its own recipe, with a little more of this or that, or variations that have evolved over the years and sometimes have even been passed on from generation to generation.

The following recipes are basic road maps but once you taste the final product, you might want to tweak the amount of chili (or even leave the seeds in), or add more cilantro, water, vinegar, or maybe even something else to suit your taste.

So let’s begin with the basic ají casero – the ají that most people make in their homes and which you’ll find in restaurants and along side every empanada being sold on the street. While the recipe is basically the same across the board, you’ll find slight variations depending on the person making it. A lot of people put oil in theirs – no one in my family ever has. Some people add more tomato, others none at all. I add mostly cilantro and a little tomato if I happen to have some on hand. Some even go so far as to add parsley, vinegar and oil which practically turns our ají into chimichurri.

Whichever you choose and whatever your final recipe looks and tastes like, I’m sure you’ll be reaching for it often…

Ají Casero

Ají Casero

  • 1-2 chili peppers, seeded and finely minced (the variety you choose depends on how hot you want your ají – habanero is a good one if you like it really hot!)
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 2 teaspoons white vinegar
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 2 scallions, green and white parts finely chopped
  • 1 tomato, peeled, seeded and finely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro, or more to taste
  • Water

Place the finely chopped chili peppers, salt and vinegar in a small non-reactive bowl (wooden or ceramic works well). Set aside while preparing the other ingredients. Add remaining ingredients to the bowl and combine. Add enough water to loosen the mixture slightly to a “saucy” consistency.

Ají de Maní (Peanut):

Ají de maní comes from a city called Popayán, the capital of the Department of Cauca. It’s usually served with empanadas or tamales de pipián, also typical of the region. Now that I started making it though, I like to put it on everything or even use it as a dip.

  • 1/2 cup stock (I used beef but you can use chicken or veg)
  • 1/2 pound raw, shelled peanuts, roasted
  • 1 tomato, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped
  • 2 scallions, green and white parts chopped
  • 3-4 chili peppers, seeded and chopped
  • 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro, or more to taste
  • 1 hard boiled egg, chopped
  • Juice of one lime
  • Salt to taste

Place the roasted peanuts and stock in a food processor. Blend until the mixture reaches a uniform consistency. Add remaining ingredients and pulse until everything is incorporated. If the mixture is too thick, add more stock (or lemon juice) until you reach the desired consistency. 

Ají de Maní

Ají de Huevo (Hard-boiled egg):

My Dad remembers this ají de huevo from his childhood, but somewhere along the line people stopped making it. I’m not sure why because I think it’s pretty amazing. A little unusual but very special – the yolk turns into a creamy saucy consistency when mixed with the vinegar and lime juice.

  • 2 chili peppers, seeded and finely chopped
  • Salt, to taste
  • 1 tablespoon vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
  • 4 hard boiled eggs, finely chopped
  • 1/2 teaspoon lime juice

Place the finely chopped chili peppers, salt and vinegar in a small non-reactive bowl – set aside while preparing the other ingredients.  Combine all remaining ingredients.

So there you have 3 recipes for ají. I haven’t included the recipe for ají de aguacate because it basically entails mashing up some avocados and adding some of the ají casero and a chopped up hard boiled egg. It’s very much like a guacamole but runnier because native Colombian avocados have a slightly higher water content – therefore more of a sauce than a salsa consistency.

Have fun experimenting and adjusting these recipes to suit you and your family’s taste. If your family is anything like mine, you might end up making two batches – one normal batch with lots of chili and one for the wimps ;)

Posted in Andean cuisine, Bogotá, Colombia, Eats, Ingredients, Recipes | Tagged , , , , , , , | 7 Comments

Sunday at Usaquén’s Flea Market

If you come to Bogotá, you shouldn’t miss Usaquén. It’s worth going on any day of the week to stroll down cobblestone streets lined with colonial buildings and eat at one of its many restaurants – but Sundays are special in Usaquén. Take a look at this post I wrote for Proexport’s Official Blogger program and you’ll understand why….

Usaquén’s Central Plaza

Posted in Bogotá, Colombia, Eats | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

La Xarcuteria: original handcrafted sausages in Bogotá

La Xarcuteria is more than just a sausage shop. For me, it satisfies like comfort food but also impresses with its creative combinations, adding something new and different to the casual dining scene. That’s why I’d rate  it as one of the most exciting new restaurants in Bogotá at the moment.

It has all the makings of a great establishment: nice ambience, fantastic food, attention to detail, and even great music – I mean, how often do you hear the Grateful Dead in Bogotá?! Not often enough, in my opinion.

Homemade sausages or salchichas are their specialty but I didn’t try one on my first visit. I was drawn to the cheeseburger, cooked medium rare with real cheddar cheese (imported). I also chose fried chicken hearts with alioli dipping sauce to accompany my burger. “They’re like nothing you’ve ever tasted”, I was told. And they were right. I’ve been back 3 times and ordered  chicken hearts with each meal.

Aside from the highly recommended cheeseburger, there’s a variety of handcrafted sausages like: boudin blanc, chorizo, pork sausage, chicken sausage, a thai beef sausage with rice noodles (you can see pieces of noodle through the casing), and specials like italian and andouille sausage.

Each one comes in a toasted bun with a topping that perfectly complements the sausage (like the chicken sausage with green apple and fennel slaw, pictured below).

The place has great colors, lighting and a long mirror that makes the narrow space feel a lot bigger than it is. On two out of three visits the service was perfect; the third time was a little spotty but that won’t stop me from going back.

What truly counts is the work that goes into the handcrafted sausages, the creative fried side dishes (fritos) and the specials. You’ll be tempted with fried cauliflower and capers, philly cheese steak au jus, bbq ribs, and for you Canadians, there’s even poutine on the menu. It’s not a terribly extensive menu but everything sounds so appealing that it’s difficult to decide on what to eat.

French Fries / Chicken Hearts

La Xarcuteria serves a dressed up version of comfort food that suits me just fine and continues to set the bar higher for other restaurants of its kind in Bogotá.

La Xarcuteria

Carrera 15 No. 83-52

Tel: 256-6652

Web: http://www.laxarcuteria.com.co/

Follow La Xarcuteia on Facebook and Twitter.

All the sausages are available uncooked to take home.

Posted in Bogotá, Eats | Tagged , , , , , , , | 1 Comment